Stud Service

Okay, so you have a female Boston Terrier and now you want to breed her. Before you decide that's really what you want, have you researched breeding? And, specifically Bostons? It's not an easy job and it's not for the faint of heart either. Statistically speaking, Bostons do not free-whelp, but usually require a cesarean section. They also tend to have small litters (2-4 puppies) and it is not uncommon at all to lose, on average, 30% of the litter. It is also not unusual to have to "assist" with the care by tube or bottle feeding weak puppies.

Breeding Bostons is often a very time consuming and expensive endeavor, so before jumping on the breeding boat, please consider why you are breeding - to improve what you have and better the breed, to "watch the miracle of life" or try to make a few bucks? I can tell you that you will likely make NO PROFIT and if you want to "watch the miracle of life" - it would be more cost effective and less heart wrenching to turn on Animal Planet or National Geographic. If your true purpose is to improve what you have and do better by the breed, then you may be on the right track.

Next, you need to evaluate your bitch and the potential stud dog. Is the bitch of breed quality? In other words, if she has any disqualifying attributes per the Breed Standard, then you may want to reconsider breeding and think about buying a dog that does not have disqualifying faults, rather than breeding as it is quite likely that those same attributes will be passed on to the offspring. Does she pass the health tests recommended by the BTCA (BAER, CERF, Patella)? If the answer to both these questions is yes, then you will need to select an appropriate stud, which can be an involved process as well since you will be looking for a male to compliment your bitch in conformation, health, and pedigree. It is best that you spend several months researching potential mates BEFORE your bitch comes into season.

If you are interested in any of my males as potential studs for your bitch, please note that I do have several requirements that must be met BEFORE your bitch comes in season and an agreement can be made.

Since you have invested considerable time, energy, and love in your little girl, I'm sure you want the best possible chance of getting her pregnant when the time comes. And I am no different. I want your bitch to get pregnant as well, so several decisions will need to be made and some tasks completed before your bitch is ready to breed.

Regardless of whether you are local, or live far away, you will need to decide if you want a live cover ("natural") breeding or an artificial insemination (A.I.) of fresh, chilled semen. If you choose A.I., the vet you use must be able to receive the shipment of semen and inseminate your bitch. This is a great option if you are not local and prefer not to ship your bitch.

Next, you will need to do progesterone testing on your bitch regardless of whether you will do an A.I. breeding or and natural breeding. If you do not do progesterone testing, and she does not become pregnant, there will be no return service or refund. "Guessing" is not an accurate way of determining the "right time" and "missed" pregnancies are expensive emotionally and financially. Progesterone testing helps avoid the disappointment of missed opportunities and missed pregnancies.

It is best to ship your bitch when progesterone level is in the 3-4 ng/ml range. Two breedings skipping one or two days in between will be done at my discretion unless you request only one.

If you are bringing your bitch to me, then you will need to bring her when her progesterone level is in the 4-5 ng/ml range through approximately 8 ng/ml (again, skipping a day in between).

All paperwork is REQUIRED and must be received BEFORE the bitch is ready to breed. Please do NOT assume all is well until all paperwork and requirements have been completed and we have come to an agreement. The stud fee must be received before the breeding takes place.

I will NOT ask anything of you/your bitch, that I do not provide to you as well. I am interested in breeding ONLY for the betterment of the breed, so anything that I require from you will also be provided to you.

No bitch will be bred unless all the paperwork and requirements have been completed - NO EXCEPTIONS

Below is a list of the required tests/paperwork needed BEFORE breeding will take place.

  1. CERF within one year of date of breeding if 4 yrs or younger. CERF within 6 month if over 4 years (please provide either the CERF number or original exam form - I prefer that it is registered with CERF, but it is not required)

  2. BAER hearing test (you can provide a copy of the original form - I prefer that it is registered with OFA, but it is not required)

  3. OFA Patella clearance (you can provide a copy of the original form - I prefer that it is registered with OFA, but it is not required)

  4. A certificate/note on your vet's letterhead stating your bitch has been identified via scanning with the microchip number listed or the permanent tattoo number of the bitch listed on the letterhead

  5. NOT REQUIRED, but recommended: Spine x-ray evaluation from OFA (see form online for more information)

  6. NOT REQUIRED, but recommended: Cardiac test (you can provide a copy of the original form - I prefer that it is registered with OFA, but it is not required)

  7. Copy of your bitch's AKC registration

  8. Copy of your bitch's pedigree

  9. Photos of your bitch if I haven't ever seen her in person

  10. Progesterone test level (exempt if contract is signed for no return service)

  11. Brucellosis test result (not required for A.I.)

  12. If being shipped and boarded with me, I will also need a copy of a negative stool check and health certificate

  13. If over 6 years, lab results for CBC/SMAC and a letter from your vet stating the bitch is healthy and fit for breeding.

The above will also be provided to you upon request. If you have any questions, contact me via email and I am always happy to provide additional information.